4 good reasons to attend Dakar Fashion Week

Pour lire l’article en français : cliquez ici.

During a dinner with friends end of 2023, as we shared our weekend plans, I mentioned my intention to attend the Thiès Fashion Show, organized by Massamba Diongue, the creator behind Mass’Attitude. One of my friends, usually open-minded, gave me a puzzled look and asked, « What’s the point of going to a Fashion Show? » I replied that it’s a way to support Senegal’s cultural and creative industries. While attending such events feels obvious to me because of my love for fashion, his candid question made me reflect on why I enjoy attending fashion shows in Dakar, despite not being directly involved in the fashion industry. Here, I’ll attempt to answer this question, hoping to convince my friend—and perhaps others—to see the value in these events.

Fashion, a Sector that Creates Value

Fashion is a flagship of the Cultural and Creative Industries* in Africa. The UNESCO has even dedicated a report to it, titled « The Fashion Sector in Africa: Trends, Challenges, and Growth Opportunities ». During the report’s launch in late 2023, UNESCO’s Director-General, Audrey Azoulay, stated: « The potential is enormous—not only economically, but also for youth employment, women’s empowerment, and the cultural influence of the continent worldwide. » Fashion drives local job creation and serves as a powerful springboard for young people eager to enter the industry.

The German Ambassador to Senegal, Sonke Siemon, emphasized this point during his opening remarks at the Senegalese-German Cooperation Christmas Market fashion show: « Creativity is a field where Senegal excels and one that creates jobs, particularly for the youth. By showcasing the work of the designers featured tonight, we aim to send a strong message to young people: you can succeed Senegal. ».

During a Fashion Show, while the spotlight is on the models walking the runway and then on the designers, it is important to realize that this is only the tip of the iceberg. For each show, there is an entire team of professionals working behind the scenes without whom the magic would not happen: makeup artists, hairstylists, professional photographers, sound engineers, technicians, assistants, and more. During the Dakar Fashion Week, nearly 200 people are fully mobilized, not to mention professionals in the catering and hospitality industries. Many spectators travel to attend this annual event, which has become a must-see in West Africa, also positively impacting tourism and shops in Dakar’s capital. Moreover, each year, the Dakar Fashion Week (DFW) team makes it a point to find a new iconic venue for the Grand Fashion Show: a baobab forest in 2020, Gorée Island in 2022, the Azalaï Hotel in 2023… This year, the closing show will take place in the Hann Forest and Zoological Park, showcasing Dakar’s heritage in a meaningful way.

By purchasing a ticket for the Grand Fashion Show of Dakar Fashion Week, you are contributing to the prosperity of this ecosystem, highlighting the work of talented designers and all those who, directly or indirectly, play a role in organizing this event.

Fashion, a Cultural Heritage

You can learn a lot about a country’s culture by exploring its fashion. Anyone arriving in Senegal will quickly notice that clothing is at the heart of Senegalese culture. This is especially evident on Fridays when everyone dons traditional attire, which is absolutely stunning. “The Senegalese woman is renowned for her elegance across the entire continent. She manages to remain elegant in any circumstance, even while cooking!” a woman I met at the fashion show of the collective of fashion designers during the Dak’Art Biennale 2024 told me.

Fashion also helps preserve ancestral craftsmanship, some of which might tend to disappear if designers did not contribute to their preservation. Designers like Aida Sene, from the brand Setsy, have chosen to use African textiles such as woven fabric, highlighting this tradition shared by many African countries. For Diaman Ndati, founder of Ndati, promoting African heritage is a guiding principle, whether through her choice of textiles sourced from Abidjan to Lagos or by naming her creations after women who have marked the history of the continent.

Maguette Gueye, the creator of Magci Dakar, has embarked on a project worthy of a university thesis by recreating the traditional wardrobe of Senegal’s various ethnic groups. This monumental task took her across the country and was published as an online catalog: “La penderie de Maam” (Grandmother’s Wardrobe). Others draw inspiration from a specific region, such as Zeyna Diakite, the designer behind Zeyafrica, who chose to base her latest collection on Bambara tradition, paying tribute to her father. Far from being a trivial activity, attending a fashion show can, on the contrary, be incredibly enlightening!

Fashion, a School of Life

Fashion events in Dakar provide opportunities to meet talented designers who remain approachable, even the most renowned among them. They are willing to share their journeys while offering advice to young people aspiring to enter the field. For instance, the screening of the film “Green Access in Berlin” during the previous edition of Dakar Fashion Week, organized with the Goethe Institute, turned into a full-fledged masterclass! Abdou Lahad Gueye, Artistic Director of Algueye, emphasized the importance of technical skills in this profession, urging aspiring designers in the audience to seek training. He highlighted the support of structures like 3FPT, which offer affordable access to professional qualifications.

For Elie Kuame, the designer behind Maison Elie Kuame, patience, resilience, and consistency are key to succeeding in this industry. According to him, one should not aim to avoid mistakes at all costs when starting out, as mistakes can serve as valuable sources of learning and growth. He particularly moved us when he shared his personal experience with the audience: the theft of his entire collection in New York, which led to a severe depression lasting eight months. By demonstrating resilience, he was able to learn from this painful experience and rise stronger, eventually creating his own Fashion Week in Abidjan in 2024. Needless to say, I’m eagerly looking forward to the screening of Kelly Kirby’s documentary on Adama Paris this Sunday, December 8th!

Fashion: A Source of Dreams and Inspiration

This year, the Dakar Fashion Week (DFW) is themed around art: “Fashion is Art.” The 22nd edition of the DFW coincides with the final week of the Dakar Biennale of Contemporary African Art. The 2024 Biennale Organizing Committee has placed special emphasis on Senegalese designers, dedicating a space to their work within the international exhibition at the Ancien Palais de Justice. “Fashion, like any form of art, creates emotions, brings people together, and unites us, regardless of our nationality, religion, or political affiliation,” explains Adama Ndiaye, creator of the Adama Paris brand and founder of Dakar Fashion Week.

In a world where global news can often be anxiety-inducing, immersing oneself in the creative universe of Senegalese fashion designers is a much-welcome timeless escape. Moreover, fashion shows in the Senegalese capital always offer two shows in one! There’s the official runway show on the podium and the « unofficial » show—put on by the guests themselves, who compete in elegance, boldness, and above all, freedom. As Adama Ndiaye points out, “In Africa, fashion is not yet subject to the dictates of trend offices, which allows for great creative freedom.” Ultimately, I think that’s what I love most about every fashion show: marveling at all this beauty, appreciating this freedom, and leaving deeply inspired.

I hope this article has inspired my perplexed friend to attend one of Senegal’s many fashion shows; in any case, I wish them the opportunity to do so. But be warned: you might become addicted, as Senegalese and african designers are bursting with creativity and craftsmanship!

I’ll conclude with this quote from Antoine de Saint-Exupéry: “It is truly useful since it is beautiful”.

Looking forward to see you at Dakar Fashion Week!

To purchase your ticket: head to the Adama Paris boutique on the Corniche.

A big thank you to all the talented photographers who allowed me to use their images to best illustrate this article. Feel free to explore their work by clicking on the links in each photo caption.

*Cultural and Creative Industries (CCI): sectors whose main focus is the creation, development, production, reproduction, promotion, distribution, or commercialization of goods, services, and activities with cultural, artistic, and/or heritage content. Source: UNESCO – Policies for Creativity: Guide for the Development of Cultural and Creative Industries, page 17.